Friday, December 7, 2007

French Polynesia

Long, white sandy beaches lined with palm trees and aquamarine waters graced with soft music and a wooden bar serving umbrella drinks. That's what I thought Tahiti and Moorea would be like too. I suppose they would be during the dry season and not the rainy season, which is when we oh-so-smartly planned our trip to French Polynesia.

Tahiti is not known for its big beaches (it has one white sand beach and the rest are black sand). Comprising of Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti, the two islands are joined together by a bridge surrounded by the one road that goes around Tahiti Nui and a road halfway around Tahiti Iti, where not even 4 wheel drive will let anyone pass. Enormous volcanic mountains rise up above the shores topped with clouds. Weather is unpredictable with the standard response of "I don't know, we will see," and can be different on each side of the island. Raining one day in Papeete, we were blessed with clear blue skies on the opposite side of Tahiti Iti, where we were lucky enough to be snorkeling and speeding around in a friend's speedboat, going close to 50mph. We spent a weekend staying with friends of friends, who then became our friends, whose backyard, literally, is the lagoon leading to the ocean. This is not a stereotypical lagoon either. Surrounded by reef, the whole island's shores are calm with waves crashing, seemingly in the middle of water, at the edge of the lagoon meeting the ocean. Surfers ride their boats out to the edge of the reef to hop on their boards. This is where I saw Paradise. Though there was no soft music in the background or a streamline of Mai Tais, this was what everyone pictures when they think of Tahiti.

Only 30 kilometers away stands Moorea, the easiest and closest island to get to. Much like Tahiti in appearance, though a bit smaller, Moorea has only one road around the whole island and it too has volcanic peaks erupting from its center. Club Med, The Sheraton and Continental all have staked their claim for their resorts on the shore. Haapiti, where we stayed, is a small town, if it can even be called that, has restaurants lining the main road and a few shops displaying the traditional black pearls of the area. Scuba diving offers amazing clarity of 20 to 30 meters. Black Tipped Sharks, Giant Triggerfish, Rainbow Fish, Red Tooth Blue Triggerfish, Moray Eels and Sting Rays all coexist and hang out with divers like we are part of the family. Yellowfins even followed us and swam as though we were actual fish. Visibility underwater lasted long enough for us to complete the dive before we were once again welcomed with rain. This isn't just rain. This is downpour. On and off for three days it poured with our warning system consisting of the before-rain-winds and a little sprinkle. The sky cascaded blues of all different shades and when the sun would come out for a few minutes, the light and dark blue contrasts in the water complemented the sky beautifully.

A return to Tahiti met us with the sweetest and kindest hospitality. Our hosts are very generous and accommodating. Family friends of Christina have met us with a warmth that touches the heart after such a long trip. We have been taken in as though we have always been family. Pending vacations to the United States for both families we are visitng, will hopefully bear reunions. The generosity of those we have met has been overwhelming. I am grateful to those around us for all they have done to give us a complete, full-circle experience in French Polynesia but also to help us wind down such a long excursion. We could not have asked for a better end to our journey.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Our Angel Carlene

Forget the vibrant green hills that sandwich towering mountains (including Mt. Doom) and meet water and beautiful beaches on either side. Forget sailing with dolphins jumping out of the water to say hello and play a game of splash. Forget Hobbiton, Glow Worm Caves (larva of mouthless flies that have 30 or so strings hanging from their mouths to catch food and through bioluminescence glow), limestone caves, good beer in Urenui. Forget Lake Taupo, reminiscent of Lake Titicaca and the sunset, Rotorua with the small town vibe. Forget miles long beaches in the Bay of Plenty and the quaintness of Tairua on the water, Hotwater Beach where you can dig holes in the sand and sit in hot tub temperature water with cool waves crashing against you (make sure you go at low tide and not high tide, like we did). Forget Cathedral Cove with a limestone arch and the rollercoaster of a trail to get there, twisting up and down for a kilometer. Forget picking parks or residential streets to sleep in the car while stealing toilet paper and paper towels from information centers and public toilets. Remember Tongariro Crossing...and Our Angel Carlene.

Eighteen kilometers up and down, across five very distinct lands, it is easy to understand what Frodo and Sam went through. We started from Managatepopo and headed toward Ketetahi (the easier way we think) beginning in the arid, deserted Volcanicland (I'm giving these areas my own names) with chunks of volcanic rock sprayed around as we walked through the hot, flat abyss. Crawling over rocks, we climbed to the turn off for Mt. Doom (Mt. Nguaruhoe) and continued our crawl/climb to Red Crater, the highest point of our chosen hike. Unstable ground made our footing very strategic. Red Crater was the point where one world meets another. Volcanic Mt. Doom looming in one direction and the valley with lakes and farms in the other. From the craters, we entered Sulphur City where thermal lakes shone bright blue and green emitting hot, vaporous breezes. Clumps of snow looked over the lakes leading the way to Blue Water Lake (this one I didn't make up)with a decreased temperature enough to cause shock if a person went from one to another.

Shortly thereafter, another incline bears the view of Lake Taupo in the valley and so we entered Grasslands (I'm so creative!) where we were surrounded by yellow grasses and bushes- some just a few inches and others a few feet high. Grassland is quite large with a low grade decline leading to Ketetahi Hut (the last or first hut in which to slumber, depending on which way you climb). Below Grassland is the Riverview Forest (another one of my genius names) shaded by pine trees and the like with streams and a river flowing through it. A patted dirt walkway is refreshing to the limbs after having to make our own trail at the beginning of the hike.

Alas, I have digressed. Our Angel Carlene comes into play at the completion of the 18kilometers, of which we hiked in under 5 hours. Unbeknownst to us, no shuttles run from one car park to the other, only from neighboring towns to the different car parks. Our choices were to go back across the varied lands to our car making our day 36 kilometers long instead of 18 or to walk to the road and see if we could find a ride. The Ketetahi car park was vacant of people to ask for rides so we ventured to the main road to hitchhike.

One car went by, no luck. Another went by, still no luck. Third, fourth, fifth. Even us trying out the Can-Can only solicited honks and waves but no rides. We walked 6 kilometers before finding a small trailer with clothes on the line and an open front door. We ventured to ask if the inhabitants knew of anyone going to town, saving us what we thought was an additional 25 km walk(on flat ground) to our 18. No, they didn't, but they told us the main highway was only 2 kilometers away.

We ran with our little backpacks to try and gain some ground as we could see ( no it was not a mirage from dehydration-- we still had plenty of food and water at that point)the highway ahead. We heard another car approaching and turned around only to lose a little hope for the car appeared to be turning down another road. Alas, the car did not turn, but pulled over for us and bore Our Angel Carlene, the woman with whom I spoke, at her house not five minutes earlier. As she drove up she said, "Everybody needs a blessing, you know...and it's Sunday." Not only did she drive us back to the turn off to the car park where our rental stood, but she drove us all the way...all the extra 34 kilometers to our car. We would have had to walk an additional 40 kilometers to our car had Our Angel Carlene not picked us up. We are forever grateful and indebted to Our Angel Carlene for providing us with a blessing and taking us that extra distance.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

White Cliffs Organic Brewery

Like most people, at the age of 60, Mike Trigg retired from his over 20 year old engineering business and a life in South Africa, to enjoy life in New Zealand near one of his son's family and grandchildren. Five years later, Mike and his wife, Rene, share a business with their son, Ron and daughter in-law, Jill. Newely, proud owners of White Cliffs Organic Brewery, Mike and Rene gave up retirement for 70 hour weeks...and so far they love it. Not that they haven't had their share of new owner problems. Within the first month, half of their equipment broke down, including pipes that seemed to have no destination or beginning and a refrigerator and stove that called it quits in the middle of their first function.

Five months after the new purchase, Mike and Rene seem to really enjoy their new work. Additions, product increase and hopefully exports seem to be the future of New Zealand's smallest organic brewery.

Placed five kilometers from the nearest town of Urenui (I should pronounce this one in person) and 1.5 kilometers from the ocean, White Cliffs is set on four acres, mostly designated for avocado trees. A function center looks out over the farm with a small glimpse of the bright, light, blue-green water just over the hill. Young olive trees surround the actual brewery with lavender bushes aligning the car park. During the day, chickens roam the property while one lonely peacock looks for a mate.

Though a beautiful setting, brewing is definitely hard work. Sounds, temperatures, percentages, colors are all documented daily. Cleanliness is of the utmost importance. Just to handle empty bottles on bottling day requires meticulous attention to properly washing hands and spraying them with an alcohol mix. The antique machine used to bottle is at least 50 years old, according to the bottling veteran Gypsy. One-legged Gypsy has been around for the 15 years that the brewery has but is hoping to give it all up in December to teach little ones in Year Four.

Labeling and packing can only happen after the full bottles are stacked properly and have dried after being hosed down to remove the sticky beer. Packing is different depending on where the beer is going and which beer it is. Amazingly, there is a difference between 2 litre bottles and 330ml bottles. Stubbies are usually for individual consumption or restaurants, 4-packs are usually for stores and fridge packs are for in-house use. Don't follow my lead and pack 9 boxes of 4-packs as fridge packs and upon completion have to redo them all. OOOPS. Brewing day is a long one, but not really for WWOOFers. The wood fire has to be started about 5:30am! Luckily for Mike and Steve (the previous owner who has stayed on to help for six months), this provided them a break from doing small time projects around the property, like weeding. I think I aged 30 years in the few hours we weeded.

Here, they sell 2 kinds of beer: Mike's Ale and Mountain Lager. Both are absolutely fantastic! It takes about 6 days for the ale and 8-10 days for the lager to brew in primary fermentation before they are moved to secondary fermentation. The grain is imported from Germany and the hops is from the South Island. At around 20 days is when the beer may be moved to the cooler to await bottling. Brewing is probably one of the sciences that has the best reward-- a nice cold glass of beer at the end of the day. Though our stay was just a short 5 days, it was the best experience we could have asked for at White Cliffs Organic Brewery.

Sydney

Awkward. Topsy-Turvy. Unpredictable. Entertaining. Surreal. Words not exactly pin-pointing my time in Sydney but hopefully creating a sense of the month spent in such a famous city. I am eternally grateful to our hosts for taking us in for such a long time. I know it is not easy to have guests for nearly a month. Unfortunately for me, I overstayed my welcome with one of our hosts within the first four days staying there...without even realizing it. Wit and sarcasm seemed a requirement for survival in the house. I had my sexual orientation, appearance, female disposition and nationality dished out to me on a silver platter. Being an American, at this time in history, is a free one. Jesting about that is a given. Unfortunately, my quick banter responses to these topics were mistaken for rude, insensitive and personal. How the above subject matter was not personal in regards to me, I do not know. Nonetheless, I somehow breached a line of formality that I believed had already been erased and thus found myself in a predicament. Luckily, I was afforded five absolutely wonderful days in Tannum Sands. My host's friends and housemates were incredible and some of the nicest and welcoming people I've ever met and indeed they did help to decrease some of the tension. I spent the rest of my time being the ultimate tourist.

I found Sydney to be quite beautiful yet understatedly homogenous with the prevalence of an Asian conglomerate. Fashion, as I have stated, is one for which I have created a new term-- milleneighties (that would be millenium, nineties and eighties)-- I think that would give an introduction to fashion. I had the opportunity to run over the Harbour Bridge, run from Bondi Beach to Coogee, surrounded by an exhibit called Sculpture by the Sea. I went to the aquarium (how fun it is to actually walk underneath where the fish and sharks swim!), Sydney Museum and I went on a harbour cruise to Wilsons Bay and Luna Park. I also made my way a bit south to Wollongong for a day at the beach. All things I would highly recommend!

Through all this, I realized I didn't fit into the box of those around me and I foolishly tried. Instead of just being me, I looked for an acceptance from my host that I will never achieve. I hope I'll learn strength in my own self and my own personality to not fall for that one again. Maybe I'll follow my own ideas of what is good for another may not be good for me.

Photos

Unfortunately, I will not be posting anymore photos. I picked up two viruses trying to upload photos on another blog and possibly have lost a full memory card of photos. Sorry for the inconvenience and hope this won't deter you all from continuing to read!!

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Religion

Though on the surface, religion does not seem like a topic for a travel blog, it has been an underlying theme throughout my travels. Catholicism reigns in Peru where people identify with being Catholic, mostly in name. Religions/faiths in South Africa differ depending on which tribes people belong. Catholicism and non-denominational Christianity run rampant in Kenya. Southeast Asia was a paradox all on its own with Muslim Malaysia and Buddhist Thailand. Even between my travel partner and I, we represent a spectrum of religion from my Orthodox upbringing and practice to her more Buddhist lifestyle and ideas.

These travels have solidified my relativist views that faith really is an individual decision. Each religion or sect boasts of being The One or The Right Way. Even I have my own ideas on what is right...for me. I have found that more people spend time arguing on who is right and how others have to be wrong in order to validate the self. I believe it's much easier to do this than it is to focus on the self. If I spend all my time pointing fingers at others, how would I have time to work on myself and my personal goals?

A friend of mine, who does happen to be Orthodox as well, commented on how sometimes when she hears different Christian sects spout their ideals she feels a closer understanding to Jews than she does to those who are technically all under the same Christian umbrella. I have often felt the same way, separating myself as being part of a different Christianity, wanting to focus more on the self, as I was raised, rather than who is right.

From this, though, I have learned that individuals need to do what is best for them in order to find their own spirituality to lead them to live the best life they can. Who am I to say that what works for me has to work for another? It's possible, but I do not believe I'm in any position to tell another what he/she should or should not believe. I do believe education of different faiths is crucial to make the personal decision on individual spirituality.

What is interesting is that everywhere I've been, when spirituality or faith has been discussed, inevitability right religion or wrong religion is approached. Searching a little harder, I have found that those who abandon the discussion and just live their life according to what they believe, tell a much different story. Those who cannot get around the discussion tend to be more didactic in their approach. Others speak by simply just living. No matter what religion or faith to which a person belongs, I believe the best way to have an understanding of one's faith is to witness how he/she lives his/her life, whether socially acceptable or not.

Understanding another person's beliefs may not bring about agreement, but it hopefully will bring an idea that what they do is right for them just as what I do is right for me. And for me, the rest is left up to God.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Tannum Sands, Australia

A six hour drive north of Brisbane bears the little town of Tannum Sands tucked across the river from Boyne Island and 20 kilometers from the industrial mecca of Gladstone (pronounced to us foreigners as if there was no 'e' on the end). Gladstone, known for the largest aluminium (yes, I intentionally added the extra 'i' as is necessary here and in other countries colonized by the English)
factory, has the largest industrial port dealing in business with China. Though to locals the 20 kilometers can seem quite far, the hike is worth it to reach quaint Tannum Sands. If ever there was a classic beach town, it would be Tannum Sands. Mostly residential, there is a central shopping center with the essentials: a chemist, supermarket, pub, drive-thru liquor store and of course, the most essential of all, a KFC. All of this is within a 10 minute walking distance to the beach. A small park overlooks the beach with the sounds of waves hitting the ears before ever reaching the cliff. Though the beach width is not as enormous as those found in the U.S. of A., it is enough that one can stay sprawled out without being reached by the huge tides (known officially around here as King Tides- though we haven't experienced those peraonlly at all), but still feel the intimacy of it nearly being a private beach. The water falls a short second place in warmth to what I experienced in Costa Rica, but compared to the water at Bondi Beach in Sydney, it's a hot tub.
This, of course, makes it enticing for kite surfers to come out after a hard days work and enjoy some evening runs.

For me, Tannum Sands wasn't just about the beach, but also the incredible hospitality and how warmly I was received by my friends, Josh and Steph. Having not seen them since before their wedding, nearly three years ago, I had no idea what to expect. They took me in as if I'd been their neighbor this whole time. They took me to Agnes Waters and 1770 to walk around and play at the beach, even though it was Steph's birthday. They told me to treat their home (and Steph's parents' house as well) as my home and would not even let me buy my own food.
I nearly had to fight them to pay for one dinner just to say a small thank you. Even the Lio family dog, Minka (unfortunately, my camera isn't working so I can't put up my picture of Minka), took me in and would try to sneak into my room to keep me company at night. I'm not sure if it was because she thought I was lonely or if she was the one who needed attention. =0)
I was even offered a car to drive an hour away at the possiblity of scuba diving in the most southern part of the Great Barrier Reef. Unfortunately, because of those King Tide thingies, I was not able to go, but the offer from Josh and Steph was too kind. Though Josh and I went to secondary together, our connection since then, has been through the friendship of our older siblings. It is a connection I hope to maintain and keep no matter where I or Josh and Steph end up. I could not have asked for a better five day holiday from my five and a half month holiday.