Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Writer's Block

From what I understand about many writers, they can just sit at a computer all day and write about this or that. Some days, they can write more than others. And occasionally, they may suffer from writer's block, for who knows how long, and then bounce back and continue on. I am quite the opposite. I am most often in a state of writer's block and randomly, thoughts and extrapolations hit me and I write. Unfortunately...well, it's unfortunate for me, I'm not sure how unfortunate it is for you all, I have not recently been hit with many thoughts or extrapolations pertinent to my travel blog and thus the reason why there has been an absence and dwindling presence of blogs. I am taking a few days to travel north of Sydney to Tannum Sands and am hoping more ideas might come along. Other than that, I can say that the fashion sense in Sydney has left me completely stumped and I believe I am making Confusion, no not Confucian, my middle name, since I don't have one. Bicycles are ridden on sidewalks so forget needing to look down for dog poop, like in Argentina...most constantly turn their heads around and then dodge just in time not be taken out by none other than a bike wheel. I definitely understand, though, why people love Sydney and want to come back. I'll wait for another time to touch on Aboriginal treatment. Although, I will say that I see why Capetown reminds people of Sydney and Sydney reminds others of Capetown. Hopefully, in the future, I'll have more random thoughts about that one. Please stay tuned for more because I'm hoping a little getaway will be just the thing to bring some more ideas!

Monday, October 15, 2007

Thailand

Resembling the landscape of Northern Malaysia, Northern Thailand is covered with rice paddies, rolling hills, dense green vegetation and small rivers squiggling all over. Daily mid-afternoon rains are expected and are fit into the days schedule. While there are various cities along the way to the northern border, smaller villages are tucked a bit from the main highway.
Small markets, whether wet, dry or souvenir, randomly appear on the side of the highways. Live frogs bagged to suffocate and be purchased by hungry shoppers line the markets. There are crickets, worms, even eels all waiting to be consumed. A courageous group of foreigners decided to try fried grasshoppers and worms.
Just a bit cruchy to start and not too much of a tickle down the throat, grasshoppers don't taste the best...I would suggest having some water or maybe some beer available to help it go down. Unfortunately for us, we didn't have the latter so we were stuck with a grasshopper after taste. Silk worms aren't as bad, but still a bit crunchy.
Half the battle is the knowledge of what is being eaten. Then it's just a snack.

Historical sites from Sukothai to markets in Chiang Mai, there is a dichotomy of life...the quiet life or the loud one. The quiet life is lead by temples and small hostels squeezed into the tropical trees. Some temples are enhanced by Buddhas with a Greek sense, influenced by Alexander.
Others are plated in bright shades of glass adorned with different Buddhas, dragons and paintings depicting Heaven and Hell. Bike rides around the villages divulge hard workers farming, sewing, teaching. Usually yellow will be worn on a Monday to commemorate the King since he was born on a Monday and the color for Monday is indeed yellow. (For those interested the colors are as follows: Monday-yellow, Tuesday-pink, Wednesday-green, Thursday-orange [I was born on Thursday and have had the hardest time finding a pleasant orange that does not make me stick out even more!] Friday-blue, Saturday-purple and Sunday-red).
Tiger Woods, for instance will wear Red on Sundays in golf tournaments since it was the day he was born. Simplicity is a traditional Buddhist teaching and the quiet life speaks to such an idea.

Cities like Lampang or Chiang Mai speak more to the loud life. Night markets line the streets, bars play loud music to entice the tourists, songtaew drivers rush around trying to avoid traffic. Up a windy hill sits one of the largest temples, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara (please don't ask for me to indicate how to pronounce this...I have no idea), where sometimes the monks can be heard chanting. Unfortunately, we weren't able to witness this, but we were able to snap photos of our own Buddhas.
In the same way that each day represents a different color, each day has its own specific Buddha. Monday-standing with right arm raised, Tuesday- laying on right side, Wednesday- standing holding an alms bowl, Thursday- meditating, Friday- standing with hands crossed toward the body, Saturday- meditating with serpents and Sunday- standing arms down. (Check out http://baanjochim.wordpress.com/2007/06/24/the-seven-days-of-thai-buddhism to get more information on the significance of each position). The tranquility is left on the hill overlooking the whole city while the hustle and bustle continues down below.

A classic way to end such a journey before returning back South is an overnight train. Some overnight trains consist of disco balls and an all night party of dancing. Lucky for us, we missed that one.
Instead our seats are made into small, short beds, lights stay on all night only partially shaded with a curtain and loud knocking noises meet the ears when the doors don't properly close. Tossing and turning won't do much until the last and final attempt to fall asleep bears the fruit of the staff waking everyone as it is almost time to disembark.

The return to Bangkok can either be relaxing or overwhelming. Bangkok is a city where there is a never ending list of things to do and places to go. Temples line the streets- the most popular being Wat Pho with the largest reclining Buddha (for those who were born on a Tuesday).
The Grand Palace is quite a site with the shockingly tiny Emerald Buddha. Snake temples are not far. Gardens are scattered around the city as are markets crowded with bartering tourists. (What a shock it will be to go to a store in Australia and not be able to barter). The Jatachuk market is one of the largest markets I have ever witnessed in my life.
There are around 8,000 stalls with different categories of every item imagined. Thai boxing is a popular event, when it's open. On the relaxing end, Thai massages are an amazing experience, canal tours provide a nice view of the city and a nice tuk tuk ride can take anyone anywhere.

From one end to another, it is difficult to move every 2 days or so, but the amount crammed into three weeks has been worth it.
Extra fees can throw a wrench into plans but overall, there are too many events to list that I would not have witnessed had I not done this tour. Every place we've been from Singapore up to Chiang Mai has been completely different and yet these places are so close to each other. I wanted a sense of the cultures and I certainly have reached my goal.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Elephant Conservation Center

Housing about 86 elephants, the Elephant Conservation Center encompasses a bathing area, a special camp for the retired Royal Elephants, a training area and plenty of hilly, plush, green land for the elephants to roam, if they are allowed. Mostly trained for logging, these elephants can pull, lift, push and even walk on logs. Some are trained to paint or even play the xylophone. Absolutely amazing.
Now that logging is illegal in Thailand and they are no longer used to fight in war, not very many people want much to do with elephants. Though sometimes they are still used for the illegal logging, elephants are also used as tourist attractions in the cities. Pay a small fee to have an elephant ride around the city to enjoy the views without seeing the behind closed doors treatment...a little stab here, a little poke there, not enough food or water.
How bout a jab with a spike? Luckily, education is working and more people are sending elephants to the Conservation Center. While we don't see what happens when tourists aren't around, it is much better treatment than if the elephants were left to their owners.

Traditionally, each elephant born for work or any sort of training will have one Mahout, a trainer, for the duration of his/her life. Elephants can outlive humans so usually being a Mahout is a family business. In the illegal practices of logging or tourism in the city, Mahouts change all the time throwing off the elephants.
The bond between the animal and the Mahout is one of complete trust. Watching one of the Mahouts try and get his elephant in the water for a bath was like watching a mom and her three year old fight over a bath. The elephant eventually got in the water, but the care the Mahout took in doing so is noteworthy.

If one of the elephants happens to become ill, the first ever elephant hospital is just nearby. The hospital was started in 1993 after a series of reports of elephants having their feet or legs blown off, from the landmines scattered at the Thailand-Burma border. Before this hospital, the elephants would have been left in the wild to die.
Now, owners can bring their elephants to the hospital for rehabilitation. Once the animal is better, the owner has the choice to take the elephant back or leave it at the hospital. If the owner decides not to take the animal back, it will stay at the Conservation Center or the hospital.

Mohtala was the first elephant patient at the Conservation Center. She lost her foot and part of her leg to a landmine. She would have been left in the wild. Instead, she was brought to the hospital where 30 veterinarians operated on her. They gave her enough anesthesia for to knock out 70 humans.
Her surgery was successful and because of her technology is being improved to create prosthetic limbs for elephants. Now Mohtala is in her 40s and still going strong. In addition to Mohtala, there was a baby elephant, who was a little over a year old. She stepped on a landmine at 7 months.
Her mother and she have been brought to the hospital, not only for rehabilitation but also for proper weaning. Elephants are not just brought there for surgery. Depression, pregnancy (there was a 3 week old baby there too), Anemia and other ailments are also prevalent.

Given that animal rights are vastly different around the world, it is comforting to know that there are people working hard to cause social change and attitudes one elephant at a time.

Friday, October 5, 2007

Ko Samui- Giant's Fishbowl

We have encountered many forms of transportation including a ferry out to Ko Samui. I see why some may call it Paradise. Though we arrived at the beginning of rainy season, it is no cause for a detterent to enjoy the island and beaches galour. Snorkeling, sailing and sun-tanning are all traditional highlights to the resorts. Massages, dancing and drinking all provide afternoon and evening entertainment. Afternoon rains rarely put a damper on plans, unless you are caught in the downpour or the electrity goes out for an undetermined amount of time. Beaches are subject to the stereotypical illustration of an earthly paradise- white sandy beaches, pale blue or light green water with dark areas marking underwater rocks. Palm trees lining the beaches create a picturesque Corona commercial. Islands big and small, within view, tease visitors with all sort of possible adventures.

We chose our adventure as diving off the coast of Koh Tao- a medium sized island by land but one or two streets long as a town. Setting off to two sites, Mango Bay and Japanese Garden, we dove for 2 hours. To be sure to have a successful dive, it is important to have enough weight on the weight belt- this way the probability of shooting up to the surface is lowered- unless you're me. Once my weight was fixed, the dive went beautifully.

Diving, to me, is like being in a giant's fishbowl. I was waiting for some young giant's chubby finger to tap or bang on the glass, to get my attention. Coral, rock, fish, mussels, clam- all look much bigger, yet somehow I till knew I didn't fit in.
A school of hundreds of Fusiliers congregated near where we were. I positioned myself underneath them and the specs of light shining through magnificently lit up the fish. A giant clam peacefully sat looking large enough to fit at least my head in it's mouth. Our second dive fashioned a narrow and low ceilinged swim through. It is pertinent to make sure not to hit any coral so as not to destroy it.
Swimming in the open is a difficult feat enough not to slam into the coral, but when there's a narrow way to swim it becomes much harder. Don't worry- I think my fin hit the wall once.

Fish swim around you like you're just another part of their world. Fish eggs float like mini jellyfish preparing to hatch. Triggerfish are kept at a distance as to not aggravate them. Sea cucumber small and large slump to a side on the ocean floor while Bannerfish bottom feed looking for some nice snacks. Sea anemones flinch to a soft touch and small mussels close with the snap of fingers.

Though changed by human interference, the colors are never-ending. A soon as you think you've seen all the colors, a new fish comes by challening the previous thought. These aren't just the standard rainbow colors of a prism taught to children.
Various shades of all colors imaginable and thensome paint the marine life. To take a few colors above the water would do grievous damage to any fashion sense, yet all the colors together underwater miraculouly match.
They match in such a manner that it is just understood that these organisms were intentionally placed together.

Though tired and quite hungry after a dive, the reward is a cooled beverage on the beach, listening to the waves, watching the few lights scattered on the horizon, firelit lanterns floating by in the sky and of course, the quick on-set of a migraine.
Just as disruptive the word migraine is to this description is how disruptive it felt. Luckily, it didn't take away from my experience as a whole. Ko Samui is definitely a worthwhile getaway. I would add it to the list.

10 Things I Love About Singapore!!

10) People actually drive in the designated lanes.
9) Drivers use turn signals and follow the speed limit.
8) Gum is banned.
7) Rubbish bins are on the street.
6) All establishments have air conditioning.
5) I can drink the tap water.
4) Arabtown. (I miss Middle Eastern food!!)
3) Hotels have hair dryers.
2) Food
1) COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF IS HERE!!! You can't even find it all over the US!

THE END