Sunday, September 30, 2007

Malay Hideaway

Twenty kilometers outside of Kuala Kangsar in the Malaysian state of Perak, lies a trickle of man-made islands on a man-made lake, Tasik Cenderoh. Nestled among the dense, plush greenery is SukaSuka Lake Retreat, run by a family of 3- the youngest to stand about 3 feet tall and greet everyone individually with a "Welcome to my house." The calm and serenity hit most during the 10 minute boat ride from the mainland, when it's apparent that the hustle and bustle of the city is long gone.
Any stress or continuous plaguing thoughts slowly drift away leaving only the peace that envelopes everyone. It's possible to fight the calm, but the fight won't last long.

One room bungalows scatter the shore with open air community areas for continued
relaxation. Benches facing different directions of the lake provide various and spectacular views. One lonely hammock sags between two trees challenging whomever to not hit the ground upon sitting.
Silence is coupled with crickets in the distance until broken by the gecko's call to indicate truth telling among the visitors. Few sit within the same vicinity but none feels obligated to speak- just feel.

Not far from SukaSuka is Batu Ring, a small village of 250- home to a nameless waterfall about 10 meters high. The winding trail hops, skips and jumps back and forth across the river.
Slippery rocks become obstacles overcome either by dropping into the river, feet consumed by the water or by perfecting enough balance to get across with the lightest step. The small climb up the rocks to the waterfall pool is quite worth it. The water bubbles matching the sound of the water hitting the pool.
The cool water envelopes the body with only a slight gasp of air before comfortability sets in. Diving off the rocks just next to the fall provides some entertainment. Standing under the fall is like nothing else- to have the pure weight bearing down crashing into the current of the river creates a sense of purity. Purity met by leeches is an unforeseen paradox to the whole experience.

There's nothing like a traditional home cooked Malaysian meal to follow the leech infested hike to the waterfall. Both men and women clad in sarongs follow their host to their seats on the floor in the dining area. Sitting cross legged is the more traditional way to sit. Only the right hand is used to scoop the various dishes onto the padded down rice.
The right of refusal is permitted only when a guest succeeds in finishing their plate before their designated host does. Without this, a guest cannot refuse more rice or food. Conversation is the best indicator of a successful dinner while lack thereof is seen as a near disaster. Great conversation is had by all until it is time to retreat to separate bungalows. A good night sleep is possible though comfortability is challenged by mosquito nets and the foreign sounds all around.

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